Hello! I am super excited to welcome you to the Eternal community. My name is Neon, and I will lead you through your first introduction to Eternal. I have been playing the game for a long time, and have probably written more about Eternal than anyone else. I know that when you are just starting out it can be a little confusing. I hope to help you with that! This guide should be useful to anyone coming from Magic the Gathering, Hearthstone, or even if you have never played any card games before! I plan to link to a bunch of other resources, so you will have lots of additional resources to check out. So, let’s get started!
Thinking about starting Eternal, but not quite sure if you want to invest the time? I may be biased, but I truly think the game is amazing and it is only getting better. To begin with, the game is extremely “free-to-play” friendly. It does not take long to build a competitive collection. Many of the people I talk to have at least one top-tier deck within the first couple of weeks of play without needing to spend a dime. The game also allows a wide range of play styles. Whether you like beating down and burning face, controlling the board while drawing cards, or assembling whacky combos, Eternal offers it all!
The game is also growing! Dire Wolf Digital (DWD) – the company that makes Eternal – has told us they are planning to release more sets, and are also considering developing a competitive scene.
I have also been blown away by the community. Whether it is debating strategy or goofing around, there are tons of people who are friendly and helpful. If you enjoy games with a lot of strategic depth, it is certainly worth a try. Within 6-10 hours of play you should probably know if it is for you, and since the game is totally free, you have nothing to lose!
The first thing to do when you start Eternal is battle through the Campaign. If you are experienced in card games you should find it fairly straight forward (and maybe a little boring), but it will help to introduce you to many of the fundamentals of the game. There is no way to get around this, so just jam your games and come back here when you are done. I should note that there are a couple of cards here that do not appear in the rest of the game, so if you later look for some card you saw in the Campaign (especially from the Fire section and the final boss) you might find that it does not actually exist. Some people have some issues with the final boss, which is a very bizarre battle. It takes place in 2 stages, where you first get to defeat your opponent easily, but then your opponent gets super-powered. For the second half just focus on surviving, since you eventually get the “Eternal Throne” card, which just ends the game.
Be sure to take the time to read what your cards do and try to understand the various keywords. I am not going to go through the meaning of all the keywords, since they are explained in the tool tips, or in the glossary (which can be found in the menu). Here is an article that explains some of the rules details of various mechanics that may not be obvious at first.
Building a Deck
After you are done the Campaign, you are told to go battle in Gauntlet. You can use one of the decks from the Campaign or you can build something yourself. This is a good time to talk about the basics of building decks. First, go into the Cards menu.
From here you see a menu where you can click on existing decks and look at their contents and/or edit them. You can also click on the “My Collection” button to just look through all the cards that you have. It is also possible to import lists from outside the game. For example, copy the following list then click on the “Import deck” then the “Clipboard” button.
2 Grenadin Drone (Set1 #5)
2 Initiate of the Sands (Set1 #74)
2 Oni Ronin (Set1 #13)
1 Pyroknight (Set1 #16)
1 Ruthless Stranger (Set1 #11)
3 Seek Power (Set1 #408)
4 Torch (Set1 #8)
4 Bold Adventurer (Set1 #77)
1 Ornate Katana (Set1 #23)
2 Piercing Shot (Set1 #25)
4 Talir’s Favored (Set0 #11)
2 Assembly Line (Set1 #29)
2 Granite Acolyte (Set1 #31)
2 Rally (Set1 #33)
3 Rebel Sharpshooter (Set1 #30)
2 Unlock Potential (Set1 #76)
2 Ancient Lore (Set1 #105)
2 Outlands Sniper (Set1 #42)
2 Praxis Displacer (Set1 #100)
1 Xenan Obelisk (Set1 #103)
1 Reliquary Raider (Set1 #110)
1 General Izalio (Set1 #56)
2 Lumen Shepherd (Set1 #117)
1 Predatory Carnosaur (Set1 #118)
1 Stonescar Maul (Set1 #52)
11 Fire Sigil (Set1 #1)
10 Time Sigil (Set1 #63)
4 Seat of Impulse (Set0 #54)
You should be able to import that and play it right now if you like! Anyway, before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s talk through some of the other functions in the deck builder.
- This button turns on “Crafting” mode. At present you are only going to see cards that you currently own, but if you turn on crafting mode you will see cards that you do not own. I would encourage you to just turn crafting mode on and flip through the collection to see what cards exist. You might be able to identify some powerful or unusual cards that you want to play with later on!
- There are a number of tools that are useful for searching your collection. As your collection grows this will be much more helpful. Currently I only have the Fire and Time cards selected, so I will only see Fire and Time cards in my searches.
- Want more detail in your search? The toggle that looks a bit like a broken martini glass brings up the advanced search menu. It is slightly unintuitive at first, so I encourage you to mess around to figure it out. If you get confused and are finding that you can no longer see the cards you want, just go into the menu and click the “Reset Filters” button to go back to default view.
- In the basic deck builder the game gives you a pre-built mix of power cards for all of your decks. Among the community we often refer to your collection of power cards as your “power base”. I am not a huge fan of the “automatic power” feature, and most people switch it off immediately. If you click the “customize power” button a dialog box pops up that allows you to select your own power. You also use this decklist viewer to remove cards from a deck. If you click on the the Stonescar Maul, for example, it will be removed from your deck. FYI – decks must be at least 1/3 power, 1/3 non-power, and 75 cards in total, with a maximum size of 150.
- You can change the portrait and the name of the deck. Click the title to change the title and the portrait to change the portrait. This is purely an aesthetic/organizational thing, and does not make any difference in the actual contents/function of the deck.
- Here we see the power-curve of the deck, which give you information about how many cards in your deck cost what amount. If you click on this, though, you get a whole new menu!
- Remember how I gave you that decklist up above? Well this is how I got it! Click that button and you decklist will be copied to your clipboard so you can share it with others.
- There is all sorts of fancy information in here! All useful for understanding you deck.
- I removed the Sigils from my deck, so now I only have 4 power in my deck. You can click this “Add Power” button to automatically add Sigils to your deck. If you remove the Sigils from the deck (by clicking on the picture) and then press the “Add Power” button, you will have 11 Fire Sigils and 10 Time Sigils added to the deck. This function will not add Banners or Seats to your deck (which are very useful) so be sure that you do not rely on the “Add Power” feature to properly build your deck for you.
- Click here to go back to regular deck building screen (not the back button – that brings you out of the deck).
Now that you have the basics, you should play around and build your own deck! Go back to the deck builder screen and build a new deck for yourself. You will need it for the Gauntlet! There is a ton to learn on the topic of deckbuilding, so if you want to learn more you can check out some articles by RNG and LocoPojo, or a Podcast episode I did on the topic.
Time to test your abilities! The Gauntlet is an AI opponent that you can battle for rewards. You pick a deck, and you are then set against a random AI. Each AI has a unique deck with a specific style of play, but they are all fairly weak when you are beginning. You then continue to play against different AI until you either lose once or get 7 wins. The final “boss” of the Gauntlet always has some whacky rule that is designed to benefit the opponent, although you may get lucky and find that it helps you more then them. Once you get 7 wins you “rank up”, which gives you a bonus reward, and the Gauntlet gets harder for next time. The Gauntlet AI is pretty dumb, plays very defensively, is easily tricked, and often “floods” out (“flood” is a term for when you draw too many power).
Gauntlet is a great tool for testing new decks and building your collection. I would encourage you to get to Master in Gauntlet as you get a number of “free” packs along the way. Also, there is no need to finish a run all at once. You can wait months between your first and second games if you want to, and there is no penalty. Want to quit a Gauntlet run so you can start again with a different deck? Go to the menu and click “resign Gauntlet”. The ranking of Gauntlet resets whenever a new set comes out, rather than monthly like the Draft and Ranked standings. If you want to learn more about Gauntlet, check out this article by LocoPojo on the subject.
Once you have dipped your toes into the Gauntlet, you can move along to Forge! In Eternal you will hear people talk about “limited” and “constructed” formats. Constructed formats are where you can build a deck out of any cards that you own and use that to battle whatever opponent you are facing. Gauntlet, for example, is a constructed format. A “limited” format is where you can only play with a subset of cards that you need to choose between. In Eternal you also get to keep all the cards you get from limited games. As soon as you pick them they are available in your collection to play with.
Forge is a limited format. You start off by getting a choice between 3 cards. You select the card that you want to play, and you must include that card in your deck. Now, when you select one of these cards, you are also are secretly selecting you first faction. You then get another set of 3 cards to choose between. Once you select a second faction you now only see cards of the selected factions. For example, if you first picked and Wisdom of the Elders, and then second picked a Deathstrike, all of your cards will either be Primal, Shadow, both (like Feeding Time) or neutral (like Alchemical Blast). There are a total of 25 picks, and when you are done the program automatically adds power for you (there is no way to control this). If you want to look at or share your Forge deck you can open the “Cards” menu, select “Import Deck” and then click “Last Forge”. In each run of Forge you are guaranteed to get at least 1 rare or legend, but usually get 2.
As a general strategy for Forge, especially when you are starting, I would encourage you to be a little on the greedy side in building your decks. Similar to Gauntlet, the AI is fairly dumb, rarely puts together an aggressive start, and has a very high chance of drawing too much power. As long as you have some early game, you should be able to survive to playing your 4, 5 and 6 drops. If you want to learn more about Forge, check out this article by LocoPojo, although I would note that his caution against faction pairs like Xenan (Time + Shadow) and Skycrag (Fire + Primal) is no longer applicable because of the release of Set 2.
Each Forge run ends with 7 wins or 2 loses. Unlike Gauntlet, there is no “special” boss fight at the end. If you get 7 wins you will receive 4 packs of cards, as well as over 2000 Gold. This means you get your 25 cards (from the cards you chose) and 4 extra packs of cards for the “effective” price of less than 500 gold. Pretty great value! Once you hit Master the rewards drop substantially, since you no longer get the “rank up” awards. I strongly encourage new players to spend their gold on Forge until they reach Master, since the returns are so generous. After that, you should turn elsewhere to build your collection.
If you have reached Master in both Gauntlet and Forge it is now time to really start playing the PvP formats. You have probably already completed some of your quests by this point, but “Ranked” or “Casual” is often the best place to complete them. You should get some of the “theme deck” quests relatively soon into your time playing. These are great for getting big batches of new cards, and can serve as the backbone for your own decks. If you look at the end of this article you will see my version of some “budget” decks that you can use to start climbing the ladder, or grinding gauntlet. The rewards system heavily rewards people who get at least 1 win a day in either Ranked or Casual, so I would make sure to keep up with that. It is best to focus your time in Ranked rather then Casual, as the rewards are better, and you might even find Ranked is easier if you are just starting. Once again, LocoPojo has written a great article on getting started in ranked that you should check out.
Once you have hit master in Forge, the best place to expand your collection is Draft. Draft costs 5000 gold, and is a limited format where you choose cards out of packs to make a deck. Once you pay your entry fee you are presented with a pack of 12 cards of Omens of the Past cards. You pick the card you think is best, and you immediately get sent a new pack with 11 cards. This pack is missing a card because someone else has taken a card from it already. You then select a card from the 11 card pack, and immediately see a new pack with 10 cards. You continue doing this until you get to 0, you now “open” a pack of Set 1 cards and repeat the same process. Once that is complete, you get another pack of Set 2, and a final pack of set 1. So, overall, select a total of 48 cards through 4 packs of cards, 2 of which are Set 2, and 2 are Set 1 (in a 2-1-2-1 fashion). You then must build a 45 card deck with these cards, in addition to whatever Sigils you like. If you are wondering where these packs come from, I touch on this in the FAQ.
Note: it is much better value to enter draft than buy packs if you are looking to build your collections. I went through some of the math in another article, but the TLDR is that draft is much better value.
It is hard to quickly summarize all the intricacies of draft here, as the topic is very deep, so please check out LocoPojo’s introductory article on the matter. You can also listen to the podcasts that I have done reviewing cards for draft. You can find my Set 1 reviews (with RNG and SirRhino) for Fire, Time, Justice, Primal, Shadow and Multifaction commons and uncommons here. There have been some changes since these were originally released, but most of the information is still useful. I also have a two part draft review of Set 2, which can be found here and here. Zoochz wrote a draft review for set 1 here, and although it hasn’t been updated for Set 2, it is still a useful tool.
Draft is a challenging format, so if you are struggling with it at first don’t worry. There is a lot to learn, especially if you do not have experience from Magic the Gathering. If you are having difficulty finding your footing in the format I would suggest watching some streamers or talking to people in discord. Draft is an extremely fun format once you get the hang of it.
When should I get Jekk’s Bounty?
This is a difficult question, since it depends on a few things. First, if you are spending real life money on the game, Jekk’s Bounty is your best value place to spend gems. Usually 100 gems = 1000 gold in value, but for buying Jekk’s bounty your 100 gems =2000 gold in value. Next, if you really like PvE content, you may enjoy playing Jekk’s Bounty. I legitimately enjoyed playing this Campaign, so you might want to prioritize the purchase. If neither of those things apply to you, you can put off buying Jekk’s Bounty a long time, since very few decks rely on cards from Jekk’s bounty. I would suggest saving up for it once you already have many of the rares that you want, as well as a good selection of legendaries. If you enjoy Armory style decks you might want to speed this up, since Quarry is a great addition to such lists (though not essential). I wrote an article on completing the Jekk’s Bounty campaign, which you can find here.
Are the theme decks worth buying?
When you are starting out they are pretty good value, especially if you are not confident in your ability to draft. Just the number of commons and uncommons that they give you is pretty decent, meaning it can help jump-start a new collection. Don’t feel like you need to buy them though, since after a couple of weeks of play you should have almost all the commons and uncommons you want from such a product.
What is the chance of upgrading chests? Getting a legendary?
There is a chance that bronze, silver or gold chests upgrade to silver, gold or diamond chests. This happens about 10% of the time, or 1-in-10 chests. This is the same chance as opening a legend in a pack (it is the same odds for opening packs in draft or just from reward packs). We have not gotten an official comment from DWD on the actual probability of getting a legend or a chest upgrade, but most people who have recorded large samples have found the chance is about 10%. Remember, just because this is a 10% chance doesn’t mean you “should” get 5 legendaries after opening 50 packs, or that your account is bugged if you don’t see a chest upgrade in your last 20 attempts. That is not how randomness works.
Should I play events?
Events are special play experiences that are available for a limited time. The rules vary from Event to Event, so be sure to review the specific prizing and format that is being offered. As of right now, most events have been geared towards experienced players. If you are just starting up I worry that you might run into grizzled veterans who will show you no mercy. Obviously every Event is different, so it is hard to generalize too much, but I would encourage you to skip events at least until you can reach Diamond or Master. You should just spend your gold on Draft.
Why doesn’t [XYZ] work like Magic/Hearthstone?
Because they are different games! There are a number of mechanics that are similar between these games, but the differences are important. It is difficult to go over all of them here, but let’s run through some basic ones.
Activated abilities – you can only activate abilities during your own turn, unlike Magic where you can (usually) do it at any time.
Aegis versus Hexproof – Aegis protects against one spell or ability affect, while hexproof protects against all targeted spells and abilities. This means that a unit with an active aegis is protected from a Harsh Rule or Lightning Storm, while a Hexproof unit is not.
Ambush versus Flash – Flash is a Magic ability that allows units to be played at any time an instant can be played, while ambush has only very specific windows. You can ambush a unit in only 3 circumstances: while your opponent is attacking before declaring blockers, at the end of your opponent’ turn, or during an ‘attack’ effect (relic weapons or killer). When you ambush in response to an attack effect it changes the target of the attack to the ambush unit. You cannot ambush a unit in response to a fast spell, or during your own attack step, etc.
Response windows – In Eternal, you cannot respond to equipping weapons or playing units. This means you might need to time removal differently than in Magic (like using a Torch before your opponent has a chance to buff their unit). Also, during combat after blockers are declared there is a window where both players have a response window for fast spells simultaneously, which never happens in Magic. It will take you a bit of time to get used to all these windows, since there are many differences with Magic.
Silence – Eternal’s silence is less powerful than Hearthstone’s silence mechanic. Eternal only removes the text on the card, so effects that give a bonus to the body (like Warcry bonuses) are not effected. If the text on the card is what gives the unit stats then the card will lose the stats. For example, a Vodakhan is a 0/0 at base, so silence effects will kill him. Silence also affects attachments on a unit. For example, if you a silence a unit with a Permafrost the unit will become unstunned, or if you silence a unit with a Steelfang Chakram, the weapon will not go back to the owner’s hand after the units dies.
How does the redraw rule work?
Your first hand is a random collection of cards from your deck, except it must have at least 1 power and 1 non-power card (power fetching effects like Seek Power count as non-power in these counts. If you redraw, your second hand will either have 2, 3 or 4 power (1/3 chance of each), and the rest will be non-power cards. You must keep the second hand.
How does [ABC] interact with [XYZ]?
Unfortunately we do not have a comprehensive rules guide as of yet, though I hope to start working on one soon. There is a glossary in game, but it is limited in the answers it will give you. Your best bet in many cases is to ask Discord. LocoPojo also wrote an introductory article on some common interactions.
Can you drop out of ranks?
Yes, but you usually need to lose a lot before it happens. It is impossible to drop out of Master though, so once you reach Master you are guaranteed to stay there until the end of the month no matter how much you lose.
How do end of seasons rewards work?
At the end of the month you get rewards based on your final rank at the end of the month. You get a separate reward for both Draft and Ranked, so you should try and get as high as possible in both every month. Rewards are based on final rank, so if you manage to de-rank and not re-rank, you only get the rewards from the lower ranking. The rewards are shown below (there is no difference between something like Diamond I and Diamond III in rewards, and you don’t get extra bonuses from being high or low in Master at the end of the season).
Where do draft packs come from?
You get the pack are from real people. The system is known as a-synchronous draft. You obviously open up a fresh pack and pick a card. You then get a pack from someone who has already finished drafting. It could have been 5 minutes ago they finished, or 5 weeks (we don’t really know), but they have already completed the draft. You then continue to receive packs from that same person for the remainder of pack 1.
Once you finish pack one you receive a fresh pack 2. Your pack 2 pick 2 comes from another real person (but different than the person who was passing to you in pack 1). That person is selected via a matching algorithm that we do not understand. We are told that it respects “signals”. If you are getting high quality Justice cards it is referred to as a “signal” that Justice is “open” (i.e. not being taken by the player passing to you). So, if you are passing along good Shadow cards and taking all the Justice cards, you are probably going to see more Justice then Shadow in pack 2. We know very little about the algorithim, but it is safe to say that “signals” matter, though it trying to mimic the effect of a real person responding to the cards that you are passing.
Once pack 2 is done, you get another fresh pack of set 2, and then the rest of pack 3 is passed from the same person that was passing to you in pack 1. In pack 4 you are again passed to by the same person who was passing to you in pack 2
Should I craft/destroy [XYZ]?
You can spend Shiftstone to craft new cards, and you get Shiftstone for destroying unwanted cards. You can look in the client to find all the values. It is very difficult to answer this question in a general fashion, since there is a whole lot of “it depends” going on. As a rule of thumb I would say you should never destroy any commons or uncommons until you have a “play set”. Even premium commons and uncommons are barely worth any Shiftstone, so it is not worth trying to scavenge your collection for a couple extra Shiftstone unless you are only 10 or 20 away from that fancy rare or legend you want. For rares and legends you should check popular decklists to see if the card is played. Cards like Mind Link or Idol of Destran can be destroyed with no concern, while destroying Sandstorm Titans is deranged. Everyone has their own “line” in determining what they what to destroy versus keep. Ask around in Discord for a second opinion when in doubt, since most cards are pretty obvious. Same goes for crafting cards, although the best cards to start with crafting should be fairly obvious after playing Ranked for little while. Avoid crafting commons and uncommons past your first couple of days, since you should get a playset of everything without too much difficulty.
Why is [XYZ] card so good?
There are a few cards that can seem totally bonkers when people see the for the first time. Sandstorm Titan is probably the most obvious example, as he has tons of stats in addition to 2 relevant abilities. There are tons of other examples too. I have written 2 articles on the subject, one discusses “pushed card“, explaining what the term means and why it is a good thing, and another article discussing Sandstorm Titan in depth. These are fairly technical, but it may give some insight into card design that you had not considered.
What does [slang term] mean?
Many of the people in the Eternal community come from Magic the Gathering (and to a lesser extend Hearthstone). There are many bits of vocabulary that come from other games that we are used to, but are new to you. I have included a quick glossary of terms that you might not know at the very end of this article (if you come across extra ones, please contact me so I can add them to the list).
There have been some other articles focused on building budget decks (like this one by SirRhino). Although some are slightly out of date, they are still functional. I wanted to just share a couple for you right now. All of these decks are composed entirely of commons and uncommons, or rares that you can acquire from starter decks and free theme decks. All three of these decks can be evolved to top tier competitive decks that you can build towards.
4 Finest Hour (Set1 #130)
4 Oni Ronin (Set1 #13)
1 Pyroknight (Set1 #16)
4 Torch (Set1 #8)
1 Champion of Glory (Set1 #314)
1 Crownwatch Longsword (Set1 #142)
4 Crownwatch Paladin (Set1 #139)
2 Minotaur Grunt (Set1 #137)
4 Rakano Outlaw (Set1 #20)
3 Vanquish (Set1 #143)
2 Auric Sentry (Set1 #146)
2 Brightmace Paladin (Set1 #147)
2 Crownwatch Deserter (Set1 #316)
2 Rebel Sharpshooter (Set1 #30)
1 Shogun’s Scepter (Set1 #26)
4 Sword of Icaria (Set1 #315)
1 Valkyrie Enforcer (Set1 #151)
1 Longhorn Sergeant (Set1 #318)
3 Morningstar (Set1 #510)
1 Steelfang Chakram (Set1 #38)
1 Silverwing Commander (Set1 #175)
1 Fourth-Tree Elder (Set1 #176)
1 Stonescar Maul (Set1 #52)
7 Fire Sigil (Set1 #1)
6 Justice Sigil (Set1 #126)
4 Rakano Banner (Set1 #427)
4 Seat of Glory (Set0 #56)
4 Diplomatic Seal (Set1 #425)
This deck is a mix of efficient low cost units, buff effects, and a few tricks for getting around blockers. Warcry units help build up advantage as the game does on, while staying aggressive. This play style is popular all the way to the top of Master, and is one of the cheapest competitive decks to put together. You can find a competitive Rakano deck here if that is what you want to build towards.
1 Copper Conduit (Set1 #66)
4 Initiate of the Sands (Set1 #74)
4 Friendly Wisp (Set1 #82)
4 Temple Scribe (Set1 #502)
3 Xenan Initiation (Set2 #44)
4 Ageless Mentor (Set1 #90)
4 Amber Acolyte (Set1 #93)
2 Scorpion Wasp (Set1 #96)
4 Archive Curator (Set2 #50)
1 Marisen’s Disciple (Set1 #104)
4 Praxis Displacer (Set1 #100)
1 Xenan Obelisk (Set1 #103)
1 Reliquary Raider (Set1 #110)
4 Twinbrood Sauropod (Set1 #113)
4 Plated Goliath (Set2 #64)
1 Predatory Carnosaur (Set1 #118)
25 Time Sigil (Set1 #63)
4 Amber Monument (Set1 #420)
This is just a deck built around playing big dummies, and hitting your opponents with them until they die. There is not a ton of nuance to the deck, since it is just a curve of overstated monsters, but you don’t always need to be clever, you can just be bigger! Mono-time is a viable archetype even at high level master, though you will need to invest in legendaries like Sandstorm Titan. Here is a competitive list to build towards. This deck is also similar to Praxis midrange or Elysian midrange in play style.
2 Dark Return (Set1 #250)
4 Permafrost (Set1 #193)
4 Seek Power (Set1 #408)
1 Suffocate (Set1 #251)
2 Annihilate (Set1 #269)
4 Borderlands Waykeeper (Set1 #517)
3 Lightning Storm (Set1 #206)
4 Vara’s Favor (Set0 #35)
2 Amethyst Acolyte (Set1 #276)
2 Extract (Set2 #155)
4 Stormcrasher (Set2 #121)
4 Wisdom of the Elders (Set1 #218)
2 Deathstrike (Set1 #290)
2 Feeding Time (Set1 #381)
1 Champion of Cunning (Set1 #371)
2 Jotun Hurler (Set1 #227)
1 Staff of Stories (Set1 #234)
2 Umbren Reaper (Set1 #299)
1 Thunderstrike Dragon (Set1 #243)
1 Channel the Tempest (Set1 #244)
1 Vara, Fate-Touched (Set1 #307)
9 Primal Sigil (Set1 #187)
9 Shadow Sigil (Set1 #249)
4 Feln Banner (Set1 #417)
4 Seat of Cunning (Set0 #62)
Although it is somewhat difficult to build great control decks with a limited collection, I know there are a lot of people who really like this play style. This deck should offer a reasonable start, though you should be prepared to adjust your mix of removal spells to focus on the threats you are seeing in your section of the meta game. You really want to craft some cards like Steward of the Past and Feln Bloodcaster for this deck as soon as possible, as they are very important additions. Feln control is playable to master, though you will want to invest in cards like Black Sky Harbinger. Here is a master level Feln control deck that you can build towards.
Connect with the Community
Discord – the best place to connect with the community is the Discord server. For those who have not used it before, Discord is a chat server. For Eternal it really acts as the core of the community. One of the best places to discuss the game, make friends, or ask questions.
Eternal Warcry – this is a great resources for decklists. If you want to look around at what other people are brewing and playing, this is a fantastic place to browse around. They also write articles that are worth checking out.
Reddit – If you have spent any amount of time on the internet, you should know what Reddit is. Well, we have one, and you should come and join! The stickied beginner questions thread is particularly helpful.
Tournaments – The most popular tournament events that are happening right now are run by RNG Eternal. You don’t need to be experience to sign up, but most people who attend are seasoned veterans. These happen (almost) every Saturday at noon (Eastern time). Some other tournament organizers exist, though I will admit that I know much less about what they are up to.
Twitch – Come check out some of the best of the game battle for glory, or LightsOutAce battle for the memes! Lots of great content here at almost any time. I will specifically suggest the RNG stream on Saturday afternoons (Eastern time) as you can check out the Eternal Tournament Series!
Well, I hope that has given you enough to start. I know that is a lot of information, but there is a lot to know! If you have any questions feel free to contact me in Discord (Neon#3989), or you can use the #beginner-questions channel in Discord, or the “Beginner Questions Thread” on Reddit. Best of luck in your quest for the Eternal Throne!
Bolt – People will sometimes call Torch “Bolt”, since it is essentially the exact same as the card Lightning Bolt.
Bounce – any effect that sends a unit back to its owner’s hand is a “bounce” effect. Teleport and Praxis Displacer are examples.
Chump Blocking or “Chump” – Chump blocking is the exercise of blocking a larger unit with a smaller one for the purpose of saving life. It is generally avoided when possible, but is necessary in the face of large attackers. A “chump attack” is related, where you attack with a group of units where one or more will likely be eaten up in the attack, but you get to deal some damage.
Creature – Magic term for unit.
Cut, or “getting cut” – In draft, if a faction is being taken by another drafter so that you do not see it, you would say that it is being cut. It is best to avoid factions that are being cut.
Darude – Eternal slang for Sandstorm Titan.
Decking – In Magic, if your deck is Empty and you are forced to draw a card, you lose the game. If that happens it is referred to as getting “decked”. In Eternal the rule is that you lose at the end of your turn if you have no card in your deck.
Disenchant – Depends slightly on the context. Usually refers to destroying excess cards for Shiftstones (similar to “Dusting”), but can occasionally be used to refer to cards that destroy attachments (Decay is a “disenchant” effect).
Dust or Arcane Dust – Hearthstone has a similar economy to Eternal, but their Shiftstone equivalent is referred to as Arcand Dust, or just Dust. “Dusting” refers to destroying unwanted cards for Shiftstone.
Durdle – Doing something that is slow and plodding, but gains value. A card like Crystalline Chalice or Explorer Emeritus are very “durdly”. It is not necessarily good or bad, but largely just slow.
Fatigue – In Hearthstone, if you draw a card from an empty deck you take damage, which increases as you are forced to draw more cards. That damage is called Fatigue damage. In this game you just lose the game if you end your turn with no cards in your deck.
Flash, or “to flash in” – Magic has a mechanic that is similar to ambush known as flash (though there are some important differences). To “flash XYZ in” means to play it with its ambush ability.
Flood, or “to flood”– drawing too much power.
HS – Abbreviation for Hearthstone.
Mana-screwed – The power system in Eternal is very similar to the Mana system of Magic. Being mana screwed means you are missing some of your influence requirements, or do not draw enough power to operate.
Milling – The act of discarding cards from your deck into your void is referred to as “milling”. In Magic the Gathering, some decks would try to win via decking (see “decking”), and would use “milling” effects on their opponents to speed up this process. Decks which are built around void synergies in Eternal may use “self mill” effects like Sporefolk and Means to an End.
Minion – Hearthstone term for unit.
MTG – Abbreviation for Magic the Gathering.
Mulligan or “Mull” – In Magic, redrawing is referred to as “taking a mulligan”, “mulliganing” or just “mull”. “Should I mulligan?” means “should I redraw?” in Eternal terms.
Pump spell – Cards that enhance your unit temporarily. Finest Hour or Rapid Shot are common examples.
Set 1/2/3 – This is the short terms for the expansions of Eternal. Set 1 is “The Empty Throne” and Set 2 is “Omens of the Past”. We have no information about set 3 at present.
Tap, or “tapped out” – A unit being exhausted in Eternal is very similar to something being tapped in Magic. The term “tapped out” refers to having no power available, meaning you often have freedom to do whatever you like.
Tokens – In Magic the Gathering, there are many cards like Hordeling Outburst that make “fake” units, that are like normal units in most respects, but have a slightly different rules. Cards like Assembly Line in Eternal make units in a similar way to Hordeling Outburst. These units have the exact same rules as normal units, but people will still refer to them as “tokens”. People will also refer to “Tokens decks”, which play a lot of go-wide effects like Assembly Line or Scouting Party.
Trample over – Overwhelm is a very similar mechanic to trample from Magic. Excess damage that is dealt to the player is said to “trample over”.
Trick, or “having a trick” – fast speed interaction that can alter combat. This is usually in the form of pump spells, fast removal, or occasionally ambush units.
Wrath – Refers to killing all of the units on board. Comes from this Magic card.